Title: Common Myths About Soaking, Washing Temp & Shrinkage Math I Stopped Believing Author: Noah Takahashi Blog: Selvedge & Spool
As a denim artisan and vintage sewing machine tech, I've spent countless hours immersed in the intricate world of denim. My workshop in San Francisco is filled with raw indigo cloth, vintage machines, and the smell of fading dyes. Over the years, I’ve encountered a myriad of misconceptions about soaking, washing temperatures, and shrinkage that can mislead even the most passionate denim enthusiasts. Today, I want to share some of these myths with you, along with the practical realities I’ve learned through trial and error.
Myth 1: Soaking Denim Always Shrinks It
It’s a common belief that soaking denim will lead to inevitable shrinkage. Many think that if you soak your raw denim, you’ll end up with a pair that’s two sizes smaller. The truth? It depends on the fabric blend and weave.
For example, 100% cotton denim will shrink, but the amount varies. Typically, you can expect about 1-3% shrinkage in the initial soak. Here’s a helpful breakdown based on the type of denim:
| Denim Type | Expected Shrinkage |
|---|---|
| 100% Cotton | 1-3% |
| Cotton Blend (e.g., with polyester) | 0-1% |
| Stretch Denim | Minimal (0-0.5%) |
Instead of fearing the soak, consider it a chance to remove excess dye and prepare your denim for the journey ahead. In my experience, a lukewarm soak for about 30 minutes can set the color and soften the fabric without excessive shrinkage.
Myth 2: Hot Water is Best for Washing
Another myth that I once believed was that hot water is essential for washing denim if you want to get it clean. However, as I've learned, hot water can damage the fabric and cause unnecessary shrinkage.
Here’s my preferred method:
- Wash Temperature: Cold water (around 30°C or 86°F) is the best option. It helps maintain the color while still cleaning effectively.
- Washing Time: Aim for a gentle cycle of around 30 minutes.
I’ve found that using a quality detergent designed for dark colors can enhance the wash without fading. My go-to is a gentle, eco-friendly detergent—$10 for a bottle that lasts for many washes.
Myth 3: You Must Wash Denim Frequently
I used to think that washing denim frequently was a must to maintain freshness. The reality? Washing too often can damage the fibers and accelerate fading.
Many denim enthusiasts advocate for a "wear and wash" approach. I suggest wearing your raw denim for about 6 months before the first wash. If you can handle it, even longer is better for that unique fade.
Here’s how to know when it’s time for a wash:
- Visual Inspection: Look for visible dirt or stains.
- Odor Check: If there’s a noticeable smell, it’s probably time to wash.
Myth 4: All Denim Brands Shrink the Same Way
When I first started working with denim, I assumed all brands followed similar practices regarding shrinkage. But this couldn’t be further from the truth! Each brand has its own methodology for processing and finishing denim, affecting how much it shrinks and fades.
For example, brands like Levi's typically preshrink their fabric, while others may use raw denim that has not been preshrunk. Here’s a quick comparison of a few well-known brands:
| Brand | Preshrunk? | Shrinkage After First Wash |
|---|---|---|
| Levi's | Yes | 0-1% |
| RRL | No | 3-5% |
| Naked & Famous | No | 1-3% |
Understanding these differences has helped me make informed decisions when choosing denim.
Myth 5: All Denim Fades the Same Way
Lastly, I remember believing that all denim fades uniformly. I’ve come to realize that fading is as unique as the person wearing it. The way you move, sit, and even the objects you carry will influence how your jeans age.
In my workshop, I’ve seen beautiful fades formed from natural wear, like honeycombs on the back of the knees or whiskers around the front pockets. These details tell a story that makes each pair of jeans unique.
💡 Noah Takahashi's Rule of Thumb:
Embrace the imperfections! Each crease and fade is a badge of honor with raw selvedge denim.